• Home
• Getting Started
• Tools
• Steps 1-10
• 11-10
• 21-30
• 31-40
• 41-50
• 51-60
• Troubleshooting
• Terms of Use

Ford / Lincoln /Mercury
4.6L Intake Manifold Repair

Removal and Replacement Instructions
(steps 11-20 of 60)

11. Remove (2) 8mm bolts from rear throttle cable bracket and un-clip cables from the bracket. Remove the bracket and set it aside.
12. Disconnect EGR line from EGR valve on throttle body - the EGR line is the large metal tube on left side of throttle body. Use an adjustable (Crescent) wrench if you don't have an large enough wrench. You will need to gently bend the EGR line back to remove the throttle body in the next step. As an alternative to removing the EGR line, you can remove the (2) 10 mm bolts that secure the EGR to the throttle body thus disconnecting the EGR unit from the throttle body. If the EGR gasket remains intact then it can be re-used. If not it would need to be replaced.
13. Remove the (5) bolts securing the throttle body and remove the throttle body and set it aside.
14. Remove upper radiator hose, thermostat housing and thermostat. Note that the new intake kit comes with a new thermostat, spacers and O-ring.
15. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor on the right (drivers) side of the intake (see picture on previous page for locations of the temperature sensors). This sensor has a gray connector. Remove the sensor using a 19mm wrench an set it aside. NOTE: 2001 and up models (and possibly others) do not have a sensor in this location (near the thermostat). Replacement manifolds for these models come with a 5/16 allen head "plug" that is used to block off this sensor boss during re-assembly.
16. Disconnect the coolant temperature sensor on the left (passenger) side of the intake. This sensor has a green connector. Remove the sensor using a 19mm wrench an set it aside. NOTE: this sensor is used for the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster. If your temp gauge doesn't work check/replace this sensor.
17. Unplug the plug wires and disconnect the fuel injector connectors. The factory plug wires are already numbered and there is no need to label them unless you have aftermarket wires which are not numbered. The fuel injector connectors just slip off. There are small, recatangular gaskets inside each fuel injector connector to help keep the connections clean. It is a good idea to remove these gaskets (using a paper clip, fish hook, etc.) and set them aside as they are prone to falling out and getting lost during the repair. If they are torn or excessively worn this is also a good time to replace them as necessary. The factory fuel injection (F.I.) wiring harness design makes it almost impossible to plug the wrong connector back onto the wrong injector so we didn't label any of the connectors. If you have an aftermarket F.I. you may need to label the connectors.

CAUTION: Make sure that there is no fuel pressure present in the fuel rail before proceeding. We let our test my car sit for several days (waiting on the intake to arrive) and there was no residual pressure in the fuel system. There is a Schrader-type valve in the fuel rail that can be used to de-pressurize the system if you have the necessary equipment. The safest and easiest method is to disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank the car for at least 15-20 seconds. On our '97 test car, the fuel pump relay is located in the engine compartment on the driver's side wheel well. The box contains several relays, all of which are labeled. Slide the box upward to remove it. Press down on the tab at the end opposite where the wires enter to slide the cover off and access the relay. Some Fords also have a fuel cut-off (rollover) switch in the trunk. This switch can also be used to disable the fuel pump before cranking to de-pressurize the system.

18. Remove the fuel rail mounting studs (8mm).
19. Remove wiring loom cover on left side of fuel rail (if so equipped).
20. Gently pull each of the fuel injectors up and out of the intake manifold leaving then connected to the fuel rail.